123D files includes all of the parts used in the Wifi Finder project. The four part design houses a uFL adapter cable, CC3000, Pro Trinket and Lipoly battery. Ready to edit top cover with an easy to adjust snap fit lid to correct for tolerances.
Port openings for the dipole antenna, slide switch for easy powering and access to the usb port for charging and programming.
The main case uses the widgets available on our 123D gallery page. Standoffs for the CC3000 on the bottom use #4 40 phillips screws for mounting. They also act as pillars that helping the uFL cable to coil underneath the CC3000. The clips that hold the slide switch in place include a chamfered platform that allows it to print without any supports.
The inner port for the usb aligns with the usb port on the Pro Trinket. The dipole antenna is held in place with the included washer and nut.
Adjust the widgets if your adding any other components like a GPS module for data logging or a bigger Lipoly battery. Merge the objects by selecting the main case first, then the slide switch clips and inner usb port parts.
Now we can subtract the holes we need to access ports. Select the the merged case and then the slide switch cut out, usb cut out and dipole antenna cut out.
For the standoffs, I select the cut outs for each cylinder and then subtract, before merging into the main case.
The geometry that punches through the back of the case tightly holds the clip in place. The clips uses the same geometry with a taller extrusion and a wall thickness difference of +.4mm depending on the tolerances of your printer.
The clip it’s self is created using the split solid feature. To create, we’ll extrude some geometry to cutout the curved shape using a simple sketch as the splitting entity.
Kinda reminds me of cutting a block of wood.
Select the four corners and add a fillet to smooth out the edges.
To print the clip without any supports, we’ll create a sketch to cut the bottom of the clip to even out the sharp side edge.
The top cover graphics were created using vector paths. Update the design by importing an svg file to cut out the shape into the cover. To account for tolerance differences, the lip that snap fits onto the case is easy to adjust for a tight fit. Select the outer walls to pull or push first and then compensate inside the inner walls.
The diffuser cover is made using the project feature. This lets you build a shape based on the outline of another object.
In this case we can use the inner shape of the lip to project an outline which we can then extrude geometry from.
The diffuser only needs to be about .5mm thick to spread the light from the LED.
Read the full tutorial on:
learn.adafruit.com
Every Thursday is #3dthursday here at Adafruit! The DIY 3D printing community has passion and dedication for making solid objects from digital models. Recently, we have noticed electronics projects integrated with 3D printed enclosures, brackets, and sculptures, so each Thursday we celebrate and highlight these bold pioneers!
Have you considered building a 3D project around an Arduino or other microcontroller? How about printing a bracket to mount your Raspberry Pi to the back of your HD monitor? And don’t forget the countless LED projects that are possible when you are modeling your projects in 3D!
Guys,
Awesome project. Awesome Hangouts show. Thanks for sharing your knowledge – it is absolutely invaluable – and greatly appreciated !
Note … was really interesting in diving into your 123d Design files, to check out your widgets and the enclosure in general. Finding that the link is invalid ("Invalid Product") and not having luck searching on the 123Dapp site.
Anyone else having issues … or is it just me ?
Thanks again and regards,
danny