Allison, a.k.a. Kitnip Cosplay, has been working on a set of armor to cosplay Shyvana from League of Legends. She built the armor from foam and Worbla and recently posted photos of the finished paint job. She achieved a beautiful finish with red and gold paints with highlights and shadows and a lot of shine. The finished product looks metallic – yes, she used metallic spray paint. The line-up of products she used is pictured below.
1. Modge Podge Sealer to seal your foam. I used about 3 to 4 coats of this but probably should of done more. It was my first time using it and it was a bit of an experiment. I’d recommend using it until your entire piece has a nice even sheen to it. You can also use the brush on kind (cheaper but I didn’t to avoid brush strokes)
2. Paint Primer. Do a couple coats of this. If you are feeling ambitious, you can also wet sand it to get a super smooth and even texture smile emoticon
3a. Silver Paint. I used this but only on my red parts. The red paint states it gets its unique color when used over Chrome. So the silver paint is a base for the red. One coat of this was good for me.
3b. Red paint. This is very thin paint. It must be done in light coats or else you will get runs. The more coats you use, the darker the color. I used 3 coats. And I can tell you, picture don’t do this paint justice. In real life, it looks like it almost glows. It’s very, VERY cool stuff.
At this point, wait for your red paint to dry (I waited a day) and mask off your red areas. I used green frog tape. Or you can do the gold first and then mask that off and do red last (this is what I did because in my head it seemed easier, but it doesn’t matter).
4a. Gold paint. I did two coats.
4b. Bronze paint. Shyvana’s gold has almost a bronze-y tinge to it, and just the gold paint itself didn’t match right. So I very lighty sprayed the bronze on. Not enough to totally cover it but enough to change the color a bit.
Now all of your spray paint is on!
After it was all dried I did some shadows with a dark red and gold-brown color to give the pieces some depth.
5. Clear finish. Two coats. I kind of experimented with the type of finish. You can get matte, satin or gloss. I found just the gloss alone was too shiny (it looked almost wet). So I also tried satin but it seemed to of dulled it a wee bit too much. In the end I went with the first coat of satin and the second gloss. I really have no idea if there was much of a difference between the two but the final look was close to what I wanted. But I’d stick with satin if you aren’t sure.
She cautions that it’s not a cheap endeavor, but if you can practice and get results like what you see on the Shyvana armor, it’s probably worth the investment.
Adafruit has had paid day off for voting for our team for years, if you need help getting that going for your organization, let us know – we can share how and why we did this as well as the good results. Here are some resources for voting by mail, voting in person, and some NY resources for our NY based teams as well. If there are additional resources to add, please let us know – adafruit.com/vote
Stop breadboarding and soldering – start making immediately! Adafruit’s Circuit Playground is jam-packed with LEDs, sensors, buttons, alligator clip pads and more. Build projects with Circuit Playground in a few minutes with the drag-and-drop MakeCode programming site, learn computer science using the CS Discoveries class on code.org, jump into CircuitPython to learn Python and hardware together, TinyGO, or even use the Arduino IDE. Circuit Playground Express is the newest and best Circuit Playground board, with support for CircuitPython, MakeCode, and Arduino. It has a powerful processor, 10 NeoPixels, mini speaker, InfraRed receive and transmit, two buttons, a switch, 14 alligator clip pads, and lots of sensors: capacitive touch, IR proximity, temperature, light, motion and sound. A whole wide world of electronics and coding is waiting for you, and it fits in the palm of your hand.