…Leane treads a very fine tightrope between the beautiful and the grotesque. He’s always done that, even with his more wearable jewellery: the tusks, the horns, the thorns you apply to your face have a fierceness to them but are, at the same time, beautiful objects with extraordinary lines. He’s an excellent technician – everything is perfectly fashioned. Because his work is so sensational and provocative, people often forget that; but the results are always flawlessly achieved.
He will endure because he has such a singular voice, and marries technical expertise with conceptual complexity. The designers that last in jewellery and fashion are those who stay true to their voice and adapt over time. Leane has a very distinct vocabulary that evolves year after year – strong designers know their own leitmotif. In ten years’ time, I know I’ll be able to recognise his work at a glance, because of its overtly primal nature. Everything he designs has a barbarity about it.