We’ve been kicking around this Darksaber Toy from Hasbro for the kiddo and I’ve been meaning to see if it’s possible to add more LEDs. This is intended for young Padawans so the design is pretty well built to take a few beatings. Even though it only has seven LEDs, the blade illuminates pretty well and I was curious to see how they’re being diffused.
The blade is made up of three pieces that are clam shelled together with about a dozen screws. The black covers feature standoffs that fit through the holes across the blade. The core of the blade is transparent plastic with a recess in the center for the PCB. Eight, err, seven LEDs are very spaced apart on this rather long and skinny PCB (Note: One of the LEDs are actually not populated, I didn’t notice after this write-up). Each is LED is labeled and the PCB faces down against the plastic when assembled.
The tip of the blade has a free-wired common 5mm LED hot glued in place. This is a good way to get the tip lit given the shape and angle of the blade.
The end of the PCB near the hilt features two different SMD LEDs. The blade only uses two colors, white and blue.
The other end of the PCB has the manufacturing date and other markings.
The hilt is two halves that are secured together with screws located behind the AAA batteries. The hilt features a built-in battery holder with a standard single-screw covering. The mode switch is at the bottom of the pommel below the speaker. The main PCB is fitted just behind the on/off switch.
The front of the board has a rubber actuator fitted on top of a momentary button. The chip is behind a black blob, standard practice for a consumer product.
The back of the board has labeled pins for the ribbon cable that connects the LED strip. I’m assuming the black cylinder is the tilt-switch for triggering sounds and animations.
While putting it back together, I forgot to adjust the ribbon cable before sliding the blade back into the hilt, so the cable got kinked – Oops! Just peeled some wire insulation, nothing some Kapton tape wouldn’t fix. Lesson learned.
And it still works! Adding more LEDs sure does sound fun but that will have to wait for another weekend.
Adafruit publishes a wide range of writing and video content, including interviews and reporting on the maker market and the wider technology world. Our standards page is intended as a guide to best practices that Adafruit uses, as well as an outline of the ethical standards Adafruit aspires to. While Adafruit is not an independent journalistic institution, Adafruit strives to be a fair, informative, and positive voice within the community – check it out here: adafruit.com/editorialstandards
Stop breadboarding and soldering – start making immediately! Adafruit’s Circuit Playground is jam-packed with LEDs, sensors, buttons, alligator clip pads and more. Build projects with Circuit Playground in a few minutes with the drag-and-drop MakeCode programming site, learn computer science using the CS Discoveries class on code.org, jump into CircuitPython to learn Python and hardware together, TinyGO, or even use the Arduino IDE. Circuit Playground Express is the newest and best Circuit Playground board, with support for CircuitPython, MakeCode, and Arduino. It has a powerful processor, 10 NeoPixels, mini speaker, InfraRed receive and transmit, two buttons, a switch, 14 alligator clip pads, and lots of sensors: capacitive touch, IR proximity, temperature, light, motion and sound. A whole wide world of electronics and coding is waiting for you, and it fits in the palm of your hand.
Have an amazing project to share? The Electronics Show and Tell is every Wednesday at 7:30pm ET! To join, head over to YouTube and check out the show’s live chat and our Discord!
Python for Microcontrollers – Adafruit Daily — Python on Microcontrollers Newsletter: Open Hardware is In, New CircuitPython and Pi 5 16GB, and much more! #CircuitPython #Python #micropython @ThePSF @Raspberry_Pi
EYE on NPI – Adafruit Daily — EYE on NPI Maxim’s Himalaya uSLIC Step-Down Power Module #EyeOnNPI @maximintegrated @digikey